Design, inovação e outras coisinhas a mais.

Pós fashion week…

6 dias intensos, 14 horas diárias de cobertura, 39 marcas e mais de 2000 pessoas transitaram pela Bienal para cobrir o SPFW ao longo da semana passada. Estilistas mostraram suas apostas para o próximo inverno. Sem ir muito fundo nas tendências e na propostas apresentadas, deixo a parte de balanço com as editoras e jornalistas de moda e preferi fazer aqui, um breve relato do que me chamou atenção nessa semana de shows sobre passarelas.
Foquei nos detalhes. Sutilezas que realmente prenderam a minha atenção nos 12 minutos de apresentação de alguns especiais.

foto 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 - foto 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

A Osklen começou com óculos revestidos de lã orgânica, a Forum fez a platéia mexer as pernas ao som de Patti Smith trazendo os cavalos da coleção para galopar por trás das modelos. Ronaldo Fraga fez o público se emocionar colocando “modelos” com mais de 60 anos vestindo suas idéias e ideais na passarela. Sommer fez o sapato holandês virar um stiletto, provando que seu talento está intacto e que realmente é “Do Estilista” a criatividade tipicamente brasileira.
foto 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 - foto 2 1 2 3 4 5 6

O coletivo Oestudio aprendeu com uma entidade especializada na reabilitação de cegos que a cegueira social é muito mais preocupante e triste do que a deficiência em si, e não pouparam peças realmente utilitárias na coleção. A Animale vai longe e tenta mostrar que a tecnologia está presente na moda, que o calor humano já pode mudar a cor do tecido, mas não contabilizaram o ar condicionado da própria sala de desfile, lotando o backstage de aquecedores bem rústicos para fazer o efeito surgir. Maria Bonita arma o circo e traz para a primeira fila de seu desfile um legítimo palhaço de 92 anos, que fazia literalmente malabares com os jornalistas que queriam entrevistá-lo. Christine Yufon mostrou com excelência seus acessórios brutos e com a maior delicadeza, ensinou as suas modelos como se faz uma verdadeira reverência chinesa. A Reserva levanta a bandeira de paz e mostra uma miscigenação no fim dos tempos, colocando kipás em africanos ao som de reggae do moderno judeu Matisyahu.
Com essa sensibilidade a flor da pele dos poucos brasileiros que passaram pelo São Paulo Fashion Week, ainda insistem em questionar a nossa identidade?

Giovanna Barbieri (produtora do GNT Fashion e pesquisadora de tendências) giovannabarbieri@gmail.com



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808 respostas para “ Pós fashion week… ”

  1. Bia Fagundes Janeiro 28th, 2009 17:18

    Giosis,
    Tão sensível e crítico esse seu olhar.
    Mostra um lado da semana de moda que nem sempre somos capazes de enxergar e entender.
    adorei!
    Sucesso sempre!

    beijo grande.

  2. Zeca Gamelo Janeiro 28th, 2009 17:30

    Perfeitamente…
    E aí, me vem os jornalistas e formadores de opinião dizer que nós copiamos. Vai muito além da criação a sensibilidade de nossos criadores.
    Aproveito para complementar com o colar de lã, da Maria Garcia, inspirados nas correntes do The Smiths. Muito boa releitura. Feeling nacional!

  3. Teresa Kohler Janeiro 28th, 2009 22:07

    Sensibilidade a flor da pele…

    Demais! Amei!

    bjsss

    Tante

  4. Patricia Meirelles Fevereiro 11th, 2009 12:46

    Uma visão de quem realmente entende e sabe perceber os detalhes que fazem toda a diferença!Arrasou!!
    Bjos,
    Paty

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    Giovanna, para aonde mais você escreve?

  6. Atol Fevereiro 13th, 2009 20:35

    Bom dia,

    estou-lhe a enviar este email em nome do Atol Magazine. Este é um projecto que acabou de nascer em Portugal e a nossa ideia é difundir por todos os países que falam a língua Portuguesa. Trata-se de uma revista multitemática que abrange assuntos tão variados como design, arte, arquitectura, ecologia, fotografia, ciência, política e muito mais.
    Esta revista tem a particularidade de ser acessível a pessoas cegas através de uma Audiozine, onde se dá particular destaque ao design de som, como se de cores e formas se tratassem. Toda a Audiozine está construída segundo as normas internacionais de código para facilitar a usabilidade às pessoas cegas.

    Decidimos enviar-lhes este email pois não sabemos muito bem como divulgar o projecto pelo Brasil, e por isso decidimos começar por fóruns e blogs ligados ao Design.
    Esperamos que apreciem o projecto, e qualquer crítica será bem vinda.

    Muito obrigado pela vossa atenção
    Com os melhores cumprimentos

    Tiago Cartageno
    Dir.Criativa Atol

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